Coastal Hydraulics by A. M. Muir Wood

By A. M. Muir Wood

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Interval of time between two similar positions of the moon relative to the earth. wave caused by sudden underwater movement, usually of seismic origin. REFERENCES 1. DoonsoN, A. , The analysis of tidal observations for 29 days, Int. Hydrog. , XXXI, 1 (1954), pp. 63-91. 2. CARTWRIGHT, D. , A study of currents in the Straits of Dover, Jnl. Ins!. , XIV, No. 2 (1961), pp. 130-151. 3. FRANCIS, J. R. , Wind action on a water surface, Proc. Inst. , 12 (Feb. 1959), pp. 197-216. 4. DARBYSHIRE, J. , Seiches in Lough Neagh, Quart.

Vi) Capillary waves are omitted as being of no direct importance to the coastal engineer. The effect of surface tension is slight for a wave length in seawater of more than about 1 in. (2·5 em) although such waves probably play a part in the initial creation of wind waves. 1 The generation of waves. The development of the theory of generation of wind waves is at present at an interesting stage. Although the mechanism is not yet fully understood, certain generalizations can be made concerning the generation of waves in deep water: (i) A minimum wind velocity is required to cause surface waves (3 ftjsecond (1 mjsec) measured at a height of about 6ft (2m) above still water level).

39) -- -(c_;~l2g----- .... --- -- ~c~~2 f~~-Water surface -c bed level FIG. 40) on a section reduced to rest by superimposing a velocity -C. 41) C = U! + [ 2hl or C- U2 + [ghl(hi + h2)] 1 ' 2 2h2 from eqns. 42) which is the expression for the hydraulic jump. Peregrine21 shows that when Bfh < 0·28 the bore consists of a series of undulations. When 0·75 > Bfh > 0·28, the leading wave of the series at least is bound to break. For greater values of Bfh the bore consists of a single wave front. From eqn.

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