Authentic recipes from Malaysia by Wendy Hutton, Luca Invernizzi Tettoni

By Wendy Hutton, Luca Invernizzi Tettoni

Drawing on their multi-ethnic historical past, Malaysians have built precise adaptations on Asian favorites like Malay satay, chinese language fried noodles, and Indian curry puff.

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Curry leaves are the tiny, slender leaves of the curry leaf shrub that belongs to the same family as the lemon tree. They do not taste like curry but are so-named because of their frequent use in Indian curries. They are sold in sprigs of 12-16 small, slightly pointed, green leaves with a distinct fragrance often associated with Indian curries. Do not substitute with Indonesian daun salam or bay leaves as sometimes suggested, as the flavour is totally different. There is no substitute for curry leaves.

The lives of the Muslim Malays were to change during the 19th century when the British began, first in Penang, then in Malacca, to gain control over the Malay states. The British brought in huge numbers of Chinese and Indian workers, dramatically altering not only the ethnic and social structure of the country but its eating habits as well. In 1963, the Federation of Malaysia was formed, with the states of the peninsula combining with the Borneo states of Sabah and Sarawak. Malaysia's cuisines are as varied as its people.

Dried black Chinese mushrooms should be soaked in warm water for 20 minutes before use, and the tough stems discarded. These mushrooms vary in thickness and quality. Try to buy the thickest ones for dishes that feature mushrooms as the main ingredient. Dried prawns are a popular Asian ingredient, particularly for sauces and sambals. They are tiny, orange-coloured saltwater prawns that have been dried in the sun. They come in different sizes and the really small ones have their heads and tails still attached.

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